If you are using the CTC screws grind them down a little. Make sure the bed leveling screw heads are not higher than the glass you will be using. Solder the leads through the holes and make sure you keep the solder flush on the heat element side.Place a smooth Teflon Grill mat on the heatbed and cut to size This will make sure we don't short anything outĬut a flat 26 or 28ga galvanized steel sheet to size of the heatbed, drill holes for the bed leveling screws. We will be mounting the hotbed inverted (heat element up)ĭesolder the leads and remove all the solder you can
Use one pin from the removed optical endstop and solder to the Arduino board +5v.desolder/remove the connector housing from the optical enstops.Remove min connector housings from board.Printed nice, but go easy on the soldering iron temp when inserting the brass inserts. extra long X end stop flag, Z top mount to provide clearance for drag chain, etc. I've printed several, the nylon just holds up better IMHO and is only $8 Extruder or print one and purchase the connectors which saves about $4.3mm screws HEVO screw kit (cheaper than buying them individually).Glass for the the heatbed with corners trimmed (from Hardware store).You can't use hammer nuts on their 2020 extrusions) 2 x 140mm 2020 extrusions (buy what you can and cut down.2 x 340mm 2020 extrusions (buy what you can and cut down.4 x 400mm 3030 extrusions (standard size you can buy already cut, but you could go shorter).8 x 350mm 3030 extrusions (standard size you can buy already cut, but you could go shorter).2 x 12mm linear rails (400mm) need to cut it down.Upgrade to Auto-leveling with proximity sensor.Upgrade the Min Endstop connectors on the board to 3 pin (+5V, Signal, Ground).Board bootloader and Marlin 1.1.8 (note I have detailed instructions on the upgrade HERE).
The goal of the project is to use as many parts from the CTC as possible and print as many parts as possible: At first I was only looking at doing a AM Prusa build, but then i thought better.ANOTHER HEVO. So now that the Hypercube Evolution is done, calibrated and has way better prints than the CTC Prusa, I figured I'd upgrade it so I can have it as a backup. This is the first printer that I purchased and my only intention was to print parts for a Hypercube Evolution. I bought my CTC Prusa I3 off craigslist in November 2017. This is a "Extreme Makeover 3D Printer Eddition".
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